Built in the 17th century to connect Kongens Nytorv and the center of Copenhagen to the sea, Nyhavn is bisected by its canal and lined with crooked, brightly painted gabled houses. Once home to sailors and dockworkers, the street was notorious for seedy drinking dens in rowdy slums. Times have changed, it seems, and Nyhavn has been spring-cleaned. The bars and the crowds are still there but nowadays they’ve both gone up-market. Welcoming cafés, bars, and restaurants offer cold beers and (mostly) excellent local dishes at tables spilling into the street. Choose somewhere to eat and settle down to watch the world go by; the best bets for quality and value of food are Cap Horn, leading the organic revolution in Copenhagen, Leonore Christiane for fresh seafood and a beautiful, traditional interior, and SARS Kommandøren for excellent smørrebrød (open sandwiches with delicious pickles, prawns, and herrings in a multitude of favors). At night heaters and blankets appear to keep punters warm and toasty, and while things gets pretty lively, with street theater and crowds of stag-nighters from Sweden and Germany, the atmosphere is always good-natured.